Our second stop on Day 3 of London Fashion Week was at Park Lane for the Acne SS13 show. A stripped back setting, the room smelled of fresh paint and was adorned with bright red blocks that made up a square shaped seating area in the middle, the ceiling packed with beam lights with blue filters, a pretty stunning team of gentlemen dressed in all white offering champagne refreshments. From the get-go, we knew the show was going to be a bit of a challenge in terms of discerning any conclusive meaning. Of course, that comes as no surprise as Acne’s creative mastermind, Johnny Johansson, never ceases to confuse, awe and keep you on your toes.
The collection referenced a sort of ‘collage’ of ideas, namely music and city chic, cowgirls (there were some interesting latex cowboy hats), and a combination of leather panelling and colour stories reminiscent of jockeys. Perhaps seemingly a tad disjointed, it actually made for a bold collection. The buckles, appearing at times a little like bondage, but sexy and daring-chic nonetheless, were an underpinning motif throughout. Brilliantly layered and perfectly cut flowing skirts strapped together over the thigh slit or strapless dresses draping down to the floor strapped at the waist-side definitely pulled the looks together. Leather, another recurring motif, was seen in the form of boxy jackets and vests in bright greens, lilacs, oranges, caramels and navy contrasted often with black and white.
We also loved the t-shirts, which were simple yet arresting in true Acne style, with the words ‘MUSIC,’ ’COLLAGE’ and ‘NEW,’ summarising Johansson’s vision for SS13 rather nicely.